Water Surface Waves: Finite-amplitude waves (edX)

Water Surface Waves: Finite-amplitude waves (edX)
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It is recommended to take a previous lecture, Water Surface Waves: Small Amplitude Waves, before this lecture.
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Water Surface Waves: Finite-amplitude waves (edX)
To understand non-linear water wave theories and perturbation methods. This course covers fundamentals of nonlinear water waves based on perturbation methods. After reviewing basic techniques of perturbation methods, we study solutions for Stokes waves of deep water. After identifying the limitation of Stokes waves solution in shallow water, we then derive the nonlinear shallow-water equations. Finally, we explore the Boussinesq equations to account for (weak) dispersion and solve the kdV equation to obtain the solitary wave solution.

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What you'll learn

l Perturbation methods

l Stokes wave theory and solutions

l Nonlinear shallow water equations

l Boussinesq equations

l kdV equation and solitary wave solution


Syllabus


Week 1. Introduction to perturbation method

Week 2. Stokes wave theory

Week 3. Nonlinear shallow-water equations

Week 4. Boussinesq equations and KdV equation


Prerequisites

It is recommended to take a previous lecture, Water Surface Waves: Small Amplitude Waves, before this lecture.



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MOOC List is learner-supported. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.

Course Auditing
42.00 EUR
It is recommended to take a previous lecture, Water Surface Waves: Small Amplitude Waves, before this lecture.

MOOC List is learner-supported. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.