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Then, we will discuss the dispersion relation which is of central importance in water waves, since it clearly shows the close relationship between wave celerity and frequency. Finally, we will learn physical properties of the water waves; 1) velocity field and pressure field; 2) wave energy; 3) group velocity and; 4) wave shoaling.
What you'll learn
l Essential knowledge of fluid dynamics for water waves
l Governing equation and boundary conditions for water wave problem
l Linearization of the boundary conditions
l Solution for simple harmonic progressive wave
l Dispersion relation
l Physical properties of the water waves
Week 1. Review of Fluid dynamics
Week 2. Linear wave theory: governing equation and boundary conditions
Week 3. Dispersion relation
Week 4. Physical properties of linear waves